It's pruning time. Again. Whoopsie Doopsie Doo!

There are always jobs in the garden that you hate having to do.  Many of them are necessary and you reap rewards later in the year for doing them now - but that does not mean you have to do them without a quiet curse and no small touch of resentment.  For me, this time has come again, for nothing says "Happy New Year" in the garden quite like the pruning of the wisteria and the annual cull of the apple tree.  For this means that I have to climb my ladder again.  And I hate - absolutely hate - heights.  But I'm too tight to pay out to get someone else to do it.  My unfortunate neighbour spent the weekend listening to various unpleasentness-es as I attempted to negotiate the front of my house trying to work out how to get the wisteria into shape, from the quiet squawks as the ladder shifted on its not-too-secure base, to the outright scream as one of the wispy leaders caught me in the eye.  Nothing says "macho pruner" quite as much as frankly girly squeals from a grown man trying to secateur at height, even if that height cannot be more than eight feet above the ground.  Dear reader, for someone like me, it feels more like eighty.  I have, after all, been rescued from a snowfield by two eighteen year old girls after freezing in fear at the height of the area, which was not half as much fun as it might sound.

It would, of course, be gratifying if I knew how to prune the things properly in the first place.  There is a Bramley in the back garden  that must be close to 40 years old.  My books - and I have many - tell me how to identify and prune a tip bearer, or a spur bearer.  My Bramley is, naturally, a "partial tip bearer", which  also "fruits on its spurs".  How helpful.  My pruning does rather look like a slash-and-cut operation, no matter what the intention may have been at the start.

As for pruning the Wisteria, the formal advice seems to be never ending and always presented as though it is all so easy.  If it were, though, why would there be so many articles on it? Apparently, you summer prune it after flowering to keep the whippy growth under control - you did do this last year, didn't you?  No, me neither!  I'm not going up that ladder twice if I can help it.  And then, in January, when it is cold and raining, and the ladder is slippery and the day is miserable, get up into the clouds again and take the stems back to the first few fat buds.  And then try to cram the prunings into the little brown bin that we can get from the council, that has spent Christmas empty and now seems far too small to be of any practical use.

So why do it? Why climb the ladder, shivering in fear every moment that I am off the ground? Because, of course, when the apple or the wisteria does flower, it is glorious and a thing of pride, and I know that it has done so only because I did the job when I really, really didn't want to.  Even though, I have come to suspect, the wisteria is one of those varieties that really doesn't care  about how it is pruned, but will always bloom prolifically since it is placed in a fully south facing position.  Of course, I didn't tell the Australian visitor that last year, when she stopped and congratulated me, taking photos of "her favourite plant" and the "spectacular show" that mine was apparently putting on.  You may assure yourselves that, just at that moment, it was all down to me and my hard work - and I remembered that feeling as I was at the top (or at least nearly half way up) the ladder this year, clinging to the stonework and the wisteria boughs, hoping that the rather thin stems would hold me up if the worst happened.

So remember, now is the time to get that wisteria, the apple trees and the roses under control, assuming that you don't need a snorkel to get to them in the first place after all the rain of the last few weeks.  But if you are going up that ladder, please be very, very careful!

What price garden crime?

According to the Office of National Statistics, theft from gardens is increasing at a rate  that even weeds would be impressed by. Garden theft is at its highest in Spring and Summer, thanks to the lighter evenings, and the most popular items stolen are bicycles, followed by power tools, hand tools and barbecues. But what most people are not aware of, is that garden theft is often not covered under your home insurance policy. Most insurance policies cover garden equipment to a maximum of £250, and only if it is kept in a secure garden shed or garage. But if you start to tally up the cost of your garden machinery – mower, strimmer, power tools, hand tools, etc – you will be well over that sum.  For many gardeners, the mower alone is enough to break the insurance piggy bank!

And then there are all the other items that are not even in the shed.  It is possible to find garden insurance that will cover these as well.  How much did you pay for the table and chairs, the bench, the water feature, or the statue?  The barbeque? What about all those pots?  The specimen plants that you put in them?  Thieves may target the strangest of items that you wouldn't think twice about - one person in Hurst Green came back from holiday to find the outside tap and the brass gate latch missing!  Fortunately, the water supply to the tap had been turned off before they left, but if they had been fitted with a water meter and the supply had been left on, that would have been an expensive experience, even without the damage that would have been caused...

There are some easy steps to take in the future to make sure you are covered. Work out roughly how much it would cost to replace all your items and shop around to find an insurer who will cover that amount, both in the shed and outside of it.  Make sure that the amount you specify is realistic - it will often be much more than you initially think.  Also confirm exactly what is covered and what is not - insurers may cover a significant sum, but it may not cover the plants themselves.  A shrub may not cost a great deal when you first put it in, but look around at the cost of mature plants for a replacement, and you are likely to need a stiff drink, a good sit down, and probably a second mortgage.

Remember also to take photos of any tools, bikes, etc, in case the insurer wants proof of ownership and mark all items if possible with your post code. Make sure your shed or garage is as secure as possible (a decent lock, and screws on the padlock hasp that cannot be removed), and try to restrict access to the rear of your garden, either by fences and locked gates - or how about some viciously thorny shrubs for protection?  It is also possible to buy special burglar alarms for sheds, which do not cost a great deal but will scare off an opportunistic thief.  When purchasing items for the garden, consider a version that may not be so attractive to thieves - the cost of scrap metal is so high, for example, that a bronze statue is now a liability (you do have one, don't you?).  Consider instead a bronze resin version that is lighter and has no intrinstic metal value.  Buy decent wood items, rather than iron.  Garden gates are commonly stolen if they are metal, for example.

Even plants are not immune to theft, especially those from front gardens. This month, Kew Gardens has had a very rare water lily, nymphaea thermarum pygmy, stolen from a glasshouse. Tales abound of produce stolen from allotments and plants from gardens.  I can remember, many years ago, tales of a large water lily stolen from the front garden of a house near Pollards Oak Road, that would have needed a large lorry to lift and remove it.  I also remember the gym up by the Diamond pub planting a number of azealeas along their drive, only to come in the next day and find most of them missing.  We may not be able to stop the crime completely, but we can often reduce it - and if it happens, make sure that you don't end up losing out financially.

Commenting on Posts

One of the features of a blog like this is that it allows readers to comment on the articles that are written.  It is hoped that a friendly discussion between members can evolve, especially if you have any additional tips on a posted topic, or additional information that you might like to share.  You can also reply to other people's comments - nicely please!  We would like to see the use of comments, as it also tells us what people want to read, and whether they are even reading at all!

How do you post comments, though, or know if anyone has made any?  It is quite simple.  As you scroll through the articles on the first page which is initially presented to you, you will see at the end of each article (on the bottom right) a piece of text which says either "No comments" or (for example) "2 Comments".  Either click on this piece of text, or on the main title of the article that you want to read/make comments on, and the article will be displayed by itself, with  any comments visible, and a comment/reply posting area below it.

When posting a comment, you really ought to enter your name.  You don't have to, but it is polite, after all!  In order to give a name, look at the box that says "Comment as", which has a number of options.   If you have a google account (for example, if you have a gmail address), one option is to use your user name.  However, if you do not have a google account, simply select the "Name/URL" option, and type your name into the first box.  You can leave the URL box blank.  Click on the "Continue" option and you can then type in your comment.  When you finish it, and are happy with the text, type "Publish".   It really is very straightforward, particularly once you have done it once or twice.

In order to make commenting easy and open to all our members, we have had to allow comments from the whole world as well.  This does lead to a possibility that rude comments could be posted by non-membership "trolls", as the world sadly seems to include a number of them who delight in this type of unpleasantness.  This can quickly demoralise people who are trying to give help to others, and can ruin a blog if allowed to do so.  In order to stop this happening, we will at first be using a "moderation" system - the comment that you make will not be posted immediately, but will be left for us to look at first.  We will then post them onto the website once we have checked them, so that we can filter any out from external sources that could be rude or upsetting.  This does mean that comments will not appear immediately, but it is, we think, necessary at the moment. Please bear with us, and be patient!

Still time for Sweet Peas

Photo from www.photos-public-domain.com

Growing sweet peas is a rewarding pastime for those of us who love scented cut flowers.  There are as many ways of growing them as there are gardeners, but one of the most frequently asked questions is when to sow the seeds for a decent display.  Down in the South, many growers will have started them off outside in September, but fear not if yours are still in their packets - you still have time to sow them in January, and this is often the accepted time for sowing for those in cold gardens, those further North or those with a greenhouse or well lit shed.  Planting directly into the soil later in the year is still possible, but you will tend not to have such a rampant display.

Many gardeners wonder why we go to the trouble of raising sweet peas from seed rather than buying the pre-grown seedlings from a nursery in March or April.  There is no definitive answer, but I have always suspected that seeds grown properly at home are much less stressed than those purchased from a bulk-forced nursery and are likely to produce a better display as a result.  In addition, growing from seed allows you to choose from a much greater variety of sweet peas, including successful historic species not available from the local nursery.  If this interests you, try buying online, or look out for the specialist sweet pea growers at flower shows such as RHS Hampton Court or RHS Chelsea.  Even the large seed companies such as Unwins or Thompson and Morgan have varieties available online that are not offered in the nurseries around us.

Some gardeners are concerned that sweet peas need large amounts of space and huge amounts of attention, but this is not necessarily true.  As well as the well-known climbing tall varieties, which really need to be planted into the soil, there are also dwarf versions such as Snoopea, which are suitable for containers and, supposedly, hanging baskets.  I will be trying to grow these and will report back if successful!

Sweet Pea Snoopea
Photo credit unknown

Some experts suggest that seeds will germinate better if they are soaked overnight (possibly discarding those that have not swollen), or if the seed coats are nicked either with a knife or by rubbing with sandpaper (on the side opposite the "eye" or the scar on the seed as damaging this is a sure fire way to kill off the seed).  However, opinions vary on this, as it was apparently suggested in the days when many seeds originated from hot climates such as California, where the seeds developed hard coats in response to the heat.  Seeds are now generally sourced from more temperate areas including within the UK, and this advice is now often ignored - some growers even suggest that soaking might stress and weaken the seedlings.  Please read your seed packets for instructions as to whether they need nicking or pre-soaking, or ask the specialist if you buy at one of the RHS shows - I have some seeds which specifically state that they should not be nicked or soaked (Heathcliffe and Cathy, to be planted in an area that is given over to plants with literary-related names such as Hosta Great Expectations and Rosa Lady of Shalott, since you didn't ask).

Although September sowings may be made directly into the ground, January sowings need to be made under cover (in a greenhouse or cold frame) as the soil will be too cold outside.  The seeds might need a gentle heat to germinate, although this is often not necessary.  If you do use heat, remove the seeds as soon as they have germinated as they will otherwise become very leggy.

Image courtesy of Thompson and Morgan

Sweet peas have deep root runs, and the seeds need to be planted in a deep pots or the equivalent.  Don't be tempted to use an ordinary seed tray as this is too shallow.  Some growers swear by toilet roll tubes (one per seed), as these can be planted complete into the soil without disturbing the roots, but if you have any realistic quantity of seeds you need a seriously incontinent family to generate enough of these tubes - and asking neighbours for theirs is a somewhat risky operation, often leading to strange looks and doors slammed in your face.  Besides, if you are planting in early January, many of the tubes will already have been used to make your own Christmas crackers! 

Generally, growers use 3 inch or 5 inch pots (1 seed per 3 inch pot, or 3 to 5 seeds in a 5 inch pot), but many report success with the new "Rootrainer" seed system that is sold in most garden centres.  This is composed of a frame which holds a number of modules (usually 32)  into each of which you plant a single seed.  The modules are reasonably deep and open up when you come to plant out the seedling to minimise root damage.  These root trainers come in a number of versions; "rapid" at 3 inches deep, "deep" at 5 inches and "maxi" at 8 inches.  The "deep" 5 inches are the ones that you need - although they are expensive, they can be re-used over and over again. The 8 inch version uses significantly more planting medium but gives little additional benefit for this cost.

The basic steps for success are, therefore:

• Check your packet / ask the supplier to confirm if the seed needs pre-treating in any way.  If in doubt, it is probably best to do nothing special;
• Plant one seed per module in a Deep Rootrainer, or one seed in a 3 inch pot, or 5 seeds in a 5 inch pot, using John Innes No 1 seed compost, or a multipurpose compost containing additional John Innes - the latter is often preferred as it contains more nutrients long-term.  Plant at about 1 inch deep;
• Water the pots and cover with a little damp newspaper to keep them moist and to keep out the light.  Rootrainers come with a lid, which can also be used to conserve moisture;
• Ideally set a mousetrap or take other precautions against rodents, particularly if sowing in a cold frame, as mice love the seed;
• Check the seeds for germination every day, remove the newspaper and/or lid, and keep them cool once they have germinated, particularly if they have had some bottom heat applied.  A cold greenhouse, coldframe or light shed is fine;
• When you have four leaves, or three / four pairs of leaves, nip out the leader to let them bush out;
• When the roots have filled the Rootrainer, or pot, and they have strong growth, plant them out after hardening them off.  They can go out before the risk of light frost has passed as they are hardy, but not before the risk of very hard frosts has gone as they are still delicate.  In our neck of the woods, this will be in late March or early April.

Check back in March for our next article on how to plant them out!

Feed the Birds, Tuppence a Bag...

With the release of the film "Saving Mr Banks", charting the relationship between Walt Disney and P. L. Travers, the author of "Mary Poppins", comes a timely reminder to remember the wildlife in the garden.  "Feed the Birds" may be a well known song from the film version of "Mary Poppins", but it is also an instruction to those gardeners who love the avian wildlife that is around at this time of year, even if the days of buying bird food at tuppence (or two whole pence for our younger readers) is long gone.  The garden may appear quiet and sleepy, but many native birds are still awake and trying to survive.  Make sure that feeders are refilled regularly as many birds become dependent on them and get confused if they suddenly stay empty.  Put out a variety of food suitable for a number of species such as peanuts, small seeds, mealworms and suet balls - the latter without their nets, if possible, to prevent small bird claws getting caught.

Also ensure that any bird baths are free of ice in the coldest weather.  Remember too that, if you have fish and need to feed them, do not smash any ice as this can harm the fish in the pool.  Put a small rubber ball in the pond, and remove it when iced up to create an air hole.  Alternatively, try to melt an air hole or carefully lift the ice sheet and break some away.

Images courtesy of freedigitalphotos.net

Growing and Showing Daffodils

 Many thanks to our speaker Laurie Manser, accompanied by his wife Ann, who gave an interesting talk on growing daffodils and staging them for show, together with a practical demonstration. We certainly learned a number of techniques that will be useful in defeating Godstone at our Challenge show, together with practical advice on improving our own displays whether we intend to show the blooms or just enjoy them in our own gardens.  As an example, if your daffodils are blind, try feeding them with Vitax Q4 in February if they are planted in bare soil, or use Growmore if they are in grass (feed these in February while the grass is dormant).  We also discovered how to "clock" the bloom to ensure that the top petal is displayed in line with the stem - although I suspect that there may be quite a few beheaded blooms in members' houses before we all manage to perform this feat with the same dexterity that Laurie showed!


Laurie also mentioned his own blog, which may be found at www.lauriemansersgardenhints.blogspot.co.uk.  Click on this link to go there!

January Meeting 2014

Our first meeting in 2014 is on Wednesday 8th January.  Laurie Manser will be giving his talk on "Growing and Showing Daffodils".  This will help us win back the Spring Challenge Teddy from Godstone!

Remember to come along and to renew your memberships and collect your programmes for the year.  We look forward to seeing you there!

Prolonging your Poinsettia

Ah, the poinsettia! These days it is as much a symbol of Christmas as Yule logs and chestnuts. I suspect that half of the houses in England contain one sitting on the side at Christmas. But they are such irritating plants! They have a list of dislikes as long as your arm and if the slightest thing upsets them they respond by promptly dropping their leaves.  They hate draughts, cold windowsills, overwatering, draughts, strong sunlight, the plastic sleeves supermarkets put them in, lack of light and did I mention draughts?

Occasionally, you get one that makes it through the festive season. But how can you get it to turn red next Christmas? The theory is as follows:

• In April, prune them back hard to about four inches and repot them using three parts John Innes No 3 to one part grit.
  
• Keep them all summer in a light place with a temperature of about 15-18 degrees C (60-65F).
  
• Now here comes the tricky bit. From the end of October, keep the plants in daylight for twelve hours, darkness for twelve hours.  Try not to expose them even to artificial light.
  
• They will also need a constant temperature of around 18 degrees C.
  

Hopefully it will then produce the famous coloured leaves in time for Christmas.

Back in the 70s, when poinsettias were an expensive treat, my mother was determined to get her poinsettia to survive. She heard on Woman’s Hour that you had to put the plant away for twelve hours a day, which she faithfully did, to be rewarded at Christmas by a very healthy looking completely green plant. My mother is a resourceful woman and so sprayed the poinsettia with artificial snow to make up for its lack of colour. It was very much admired by friends and neighbours, who all thought that she had intended it to be that way.

So, I have two poinsettias that so far are surviving. If they make it to April, Operation Poinsettia will be put into operation. Check back at Christmas to see how I fared!

Better Plant and Garden Photography

Following hot on the heels of the International Garden Photographer of the Year exhibition at Chartwell, described in our previous post, comes the "Better plant and garden photography" lecture, also at Chartwell.  Philip Smith, director of the competition, covers techniques and tricks to improve photography skills and promises a lecture suitable for all ages, abilities and types of camera.

The lecture is on Wednesday 22nd January from 11 am to 12.30 pm, and costs £5 per person.  Booking is apparently essential.  Details from 01732 861161, or email chartwell.restaurant@nationaltrust.org.uk, or book your place by visiting  www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell

International Garden Photographer of the Year comes to Chartwell

The International Garden Photographer of the Year was started in 2008, and accepts entries from all
over the world.  It is run in association with the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. The main exhibition is held annually at Kew, with a rolling programme of touring exhibitions in the UK and all over the world.

An exhibition of some of the Competition 6 entries has opened at Chartwell, and is open from 30th December 2013 until 14th February 2014.  The exhibition is themed around Beauty of Plants, Wildlife in the Garden and Garden Views.  The photographs are exceptional and well worth a visit to see.

Entry to the exhibition is free for those with National Trust memberships, otherwise you will need to purchase a garden ticket to gain entry to the exhibition.  For more information, telephone the Chartwell Property Office on 01732 868381 or email chartwell@nationaltrust.org.uk.

For more details of the International Garden Photographer of the Year competition, and to see the standard of some of the entries and photographs in the exhibition (including the winner), visit www.igpoty.com.  Remember that Class 219 of the Flower and Produce Show in September is for photographs, and this exhibition will give any keen photographers a standard to aim for!